THE RIGHT WAY TO STORE YOUR MOWER FOR WINTER

Step 1: Deal With the Fuel

This is the most important step. Old fuel causes more spring problems than anything else. You have two options:

• Run it dry: Run the mower until the engine dies from lack of fuel. Then pull the starter a few more times to clear the carburettor of remaining fuel. This is the preferred method.
• Add fuel stabiliser: If you don't want to run it dry, add a quality fuel stabiliser (like Sta-Bil) to the tank, run the engine for 5 minutes to circulate it through the carby, then shut down. This treats the fuel and slows degradation.

Never just leave the fuel sitting untreated. Ethanol-blend petrol (E10 is common in SA) absorbs moisture from the air and separates. You'll get water in the fuel system and varnish in the carby.

Step 2: Change the Oil (If Due)

Old engine oil has combustion acids in it. Leaving those acids in contact with engine internals all winter causes more wear than the running hours you've put on it. If the oil hasn't been changed in the last season or 25 hours of use, change it before storage — not in spring.

Step 3: Clean the Deck

Grass clippings hold moisture. Packed-on clippings under the deck trap that moisture against the steel and cause rust. Scrape the deck clean, let it dry, and consider a light coat of spray wax or WD-40 on the underside to prevent rust over winter.

Step 4: Check the Air Filter

A dirty air filter restricts airflow and forces the engine to work harder. Replace or clean it in autumn so the mower starts the new season with clean air. Paper filters are $5–15 — cheap insurance.

Step 5: Spark Plug

If the plug is more than a season old, replace it during winter storage. A new plug in autumn means one less thing to worry about when spring comes. Cost is usually $5–12.

Step 6: Store It Properly

Store in a dry place — garden shed is fine, but not somewhere that floods or gets heavy condensation. If your shed has a concrete floor, put the mower on a sheet of plywood or a mat; concrete draws moisture.